Given our climate here in Florida, timing is particularly critical to achieve good results and long life out of the sealing and striping applications.

The best time to apply is during spring (March-May) or fall (late September-November). These times of year typically have moderate temperatures, lower humidity (comparatively), and not as many heavy rain events.

Summer (June-August) is extremely hot, has high surface temperatures on asphalt, it may be quite humid, and daily afternoon thunderstorms are common. While summer work can still be accomplished, the risks are higher that sealants or paint will cure too quickly (inadequate adhesion, cracking, peeling) or heavy rain will wash away the work.

Winter is mild in most of Florida but it is generally not as much of a limiting factor as locations north of us. Early mornings, or some cold front may drop temperatures low or raise humidity and dew levels helping to delay curing. The temperature should be no less than ~ 50-55°F for sealants and/or paint (or the base/pavement standard is cold temperature).

Always consult the weather: you want days of dry weather, and no chance of rain within a minimum of 24-48 hours after the application. Rain during curing is one of the most common causes of failure.

Due to the effects of heat, humidity, and the unpredictable nature of rain, drying or cure times may vary more in our type of climate compared to other, more temperate or arid locations:

Under warm dry conditions, when humidity is reasonable, you can expect sealcoating to cure to the point of allowing light traffic in 24 - 48 hours. Even under hotter conditions and while it may appear dry more hastily, the binding and adhesion of the product may remain weak if you do not allow adequate cure time.

When humidity is high or there is a dew, or it is cooler (even only at night) or the threat of rain is in the air then you should expect longer cure times required to truly cure the sealcoat.

Under striping, the paint cures faster than sealcoating, even still, however, if you try to paint when it is extremely hot and/or humid it may cure improperly or not adhere well if rain falls shortly after application. It usually depends on the type of paint but most paint is ready to be driven on within a couple hours.

The intense UV light, heat, torrential rains, and sometimes salty air (if you're near the coast) will deteriorate asphalt and striping faster than milder or dryer climates. Therefore:

Sealcoating every 2‑3 years is common but if you are in a higher traffic area, coastal areas, or areas that get more sun & heat, you might do every 18‑24 months.

Most likely, striping will need to be refreshed much sooner, may be every 1‑2 years, depending upon fading (from UV), wear (from traffic), and washout. Stripes can be more difficult to see after rainy seasons or during summer- If they're hard to see, then sooner.

The cycle of heat, sun, moisture, and summer storms in Florida will generally cause cracks to form more quickly (from oxidation, UV damage, expansion/contraction), so:

- Crack sealing should happen relatively soon after cracks are found, before the rainy season, or during dry weather if the cracks occurred right after, so that moisture can’t get a chance to make cracks worse.

- Sealcoating is best done after cracks are sealed (filled/sealed), so that moisture infiltration under a crack doesn’t cause the seal to fail. The sealcoating should be done during dry weather to encourage bonding, as well.

The materials used should be resistant to moisture intrusion (rainy season), UV, and high temperature.

This is a common concern, if applied properly, a good quality sealer should not create an excessive slippery surface. Here is how risk is minimized:

Several sealers have fine sand or aggregate in the mix to provide texture and traction.

An experienced/mature contractor observes the slipperiness (especially in cold or wet conditions) and may be able to adjust the mix or the application.

When the surface is not clean, or if there are too many coatings applied, or if the drying conditions were poor, slipperiness is likely.

The paint used for the striping is a specialty paint for this purpose and has good bonding properties that is less likely to slip under normal driving conditions.

Until the coating is fully cured, always avoid accelerating too fast or making sudden turns on the newly coated pavement.

Good routine maintenance can significantly extend the life of your pavement and stripe work. Here are a few good suggestions:

Sweep/blow off debris regularly — leaves, dirt, sand, and gravel works like abrasives.

Clean oil, gasoline, chemical spills as soon as they occur with the appropriate degreasers to prevent binder breakdown.

Scan the lot periodically (at least two times a year) for any new cracks, faded lines, potholes, drainage issues, etc.

Fix any small cracks right away before they become larger problems.

Ensure that drainage is clear so that water does not pool on the surface or edges.

Try to limit heavy static loads or sharp turns on older pavement, if possible.

Allow round up to budget for touch ups (line painting, small patches) to prolong full-scale work.

Over time, every paved surface will develop cracks due to factors like base material breakdown, water intrusion, freeze-thaw cycles, heavy traffic loads, or other environmental stresses. The best way to avoid major repair costs down the line is to address cracks while they’re still minor. Research shows that spending on crack sealing today can yield substantial savings in future pavement rehabilitation.
Typically, crack-sealing work can cost between approximately $0.35 and $1.00 per linear foot, depending on the methods and materials used.

Potholes are an unavoidable part of paved surfaces — they emerge in roadways, parking areas and residential driveways alike. Their formation is driven by various factors such as water infiltration, freeze-thaw cycles, degradation of the pavement base, heavy vehicle loads and other environmental stresses. These holes pose a serious risk to both motorists and pedestrians — from flat tires and bent rims to misaligned vehicles and even potential accidents. Recent data show the financial burden on U.S. drivers is substantial.

Repairing a single pothole normally costs in the range of $35 to $50, and there can be an additional mobilization fee of roughly $100 to $150 for trucks, crews and logistics. Because these issues tend to grow over time, what starts as a minor pothole, if ignored, can lead to exponentially higher expenses.

When evaluating the expense of sealcoating asphalt, it’s equally important to think about the potential costs of skipping it. Without a protective sealcoat, asphalt surfaces deteriorate faster due to exposure to sunlight, oxidation, weather conditions, oil leaks, and other environmental factors. Just as we apply finishes to protect outdoor wood or paint to safeguard metal, asphalt surfaces benefit from a similar protective barrier. Sealcoating creates a resilient layer that shields the pavement from the elements. A regular maintenance plan that includes both crack filling and sealcoating can extend the lifespan of your asphalt surface by more than double — and at a much lower cost than a full resurfacing or repaving project.

Beyond protection, sealcoating also dramatically improves the look of your property. A clean, dark, freshly sealed driveway or parking lot gives a professional first impression, unlike a faded gray surface that appears aged and neglected. In many ways, your pavement is the first thing visitors see — make sure it reflects the quality and care you put into the rest of your property.